Flagrantly exceeding the appellation’s six-years-and-three-months minimum, Dorbon releases his Vin Jaune only after a full ten years under the veil, and only in certain vintages. The result is an oceanic wine of seemingly impossible power, with raging acidity wed to luscious, salt-caked yellow fruits, and given additional complexity by a raw-almond character that stops short of overt oxidation.