A cuvée that incorporates all of the Moulin-à-Vent lieux-dits that Duperray bottles separately in more plentiful years, the 2016 Moulin-à-Vent was sorted berry by berry to remove all hail-impacted fruit, a labor of love that resulted in derisory yields but remarkable quality. Unfurling in the glass with scents of dried rose petals, plums, raspberries, peonies and dark chocolate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with immense concentration, rich but powdery tannins and lively acids, displaying a strikingly complete, seamless profile and concluding with a long, pungently floral finish. This is one of the few contemporary Beaujolais to evoke the region's great wines from the inter- and post-War era.