As vinification for Azelia’s four single-MGA bottlings is similar, they provide an instructive glimpse of terroir differences. Cerretta, for example, is just 200m from San Rocco but contains pockets of red clay not typical of Barolo. Redolent of warm brick, dark floral, bay leaf and soy, the nose is a striking, and the wine fills mouth with juicy black cherry and savoury iron. It has tremendous substance but is not heavy, and that energetic acidity properly cleanses. Linear tannins command the palate for now but there is plenty of depth and detail for the long-haul.